Why Mexican artisanal wine is here to thrive

Hello Vinjoyment friends!

One of this spring's highlights has been a trip to Baja California, Mexico. Just a short drive from Tijuana airport, a visit to Ensenada and Valle de Guadalupe is about much more than simply touring a wine region south of the complex Mexico-US border. These are places where creativity, talent and effort meet environmental hardship (drought is a major challenge); where community-led support is needed in lieu of systemic assistance (e.g. the fire brigade is largely made up of volunteers), and where, unequivocally, that Mexican 'can-do' attitude works wonders.

Our visits and conversations with some of the people putting Mexican natural (or as I prefer to call it, artisanal) wine on the global map were inspiring. They've also given me an optimistic outlook on the region's potential for the following reasons:

1. The spirit of experimentation: Mexico's wine industry isn't currently bound by appellations of origin. While this can present some 'reputational' downsides in very conventional spheres, my view is that this mainly provides a blank canvas for experimentation with forgotten grape varieties like Misión or Rosa del Perú, rather than trying to imitate foreign styles. Some of the most 'unorthodox' blends are found in Mexico (and many of them work incredibly well!). This also applies to other high-altitude winemaking regions like Querétaro or Guanajuato, which are also ones to watch.
2. A youth-driven wine culture: the Mexican natural wine scene is refreshingly unpretentious and the new generation of winemakers and wine drinkers brings great energy. It's clearly influenced by contemporary culture, design, music and the creativity that distinguishes Mexican arts and crafts. Whilst still niche, it's been great to see more natural wine bars in Mexico City and Guadalajara in the past few years.
3. A perfect match for Mexican gastronomy: whether it is street food or a multiple-course meal, the complexity of Mexican flavours (spicy, smoky and highly acidic, often all at the same time!) pair well with equally exciting wines that won't overpower the food with excess oak, tannins or ego!

There is, of course, so much more to say and for me to continue learning, but below are a few brief highlights from this trip showcasing these artisanal, independent projects, which are here to thrive:

• We loved visiting the vineyards where it all starts for the wines of Vinos Pijoan, Silvana Pijoan and Daniel Kelly's Vino Figura (note: Silvana and Kelly are no doubt Mexico's coolest couple!). The soil of some of these vineyards is mainly composed of granite and sand – 'almost like a vineyard by the beach!'. The family cellar and winery could tell a million stories of how making wine isn't a linear project, but rather one of experimentation, learning and commitment. This is evident in their excellent wines. The estate also hosts a beautiful sanctuary for native plants and wildflowers; it's all about the connection with the local ecosystem.

• Radicante: After studying and working in Europe, Oscar Mancillas and his wines are also part of the movement demonstrating what is possible in the Mexican natural wine scene. He's already making stunning wines in the historic cooperative winery while simultaneously building his own. We cannot wait to see what else he creates.

• La Casa Vieja - Don Humberto Toscano is living proof of how working with the land relies on intuition and trusting what the soil naturally provides, rather than forcing it. His old vines (some of which are 120 years old!) have not ever seen chemicals and he just knows what he's doing with his Palomino, Misión and Garnacha. You could talk for endless hours with him and learn something new every minute.

• Drosophila - How energising it is to be around people so committed to their craft, down to the most minute detail! It was wonderful to meet Jorge and Yoshio (two-thirds of the Drosophila team), whose deep research and experimentation at their Ensenada winery are adding immense value to what we hope is the future of Mexican wine. Fun fact: Drosophila is named after the fruit fly found during fermentation, reminding us that this process is all about working with nature.

And, of course, a trip to Ensenada wouldn't be complete without a proper night out, banda, the most amazing seafood and fish tacos. Extra special thanks to David Natas Wines, who apart from having excellent taste in wine, knows exactly what the belly and soul need.

Catalan Soul - SAT 6 JUNE, 3PM, Funky Cellar at Old Spitalfields Markey

I'm thrilled to dedicate this tasting to Catalonia – one of the most fascinating wine regions in the world!

Defined by ‘Mar i Muntanya’ (sea and mountain), this unique Mediterranean landscape produces vibrant wines that prove Catalonia is much more than just Cava. This line up will be a very special one - don't miss it!

Private events

I've loved hosting several private events lately! If you’re interested in a bespoke wine tasting / workshop for a group of friends, colleagues or family, just let me know and I can help you create a wonderful experience.

Curated wine boxes

Thank you to everyone who has purchased Vinjoyment wine boxes curated by me - I love putting them together! I’m working to make this a more regular service for those who would like it, so please let me know if you’d be interested!